Natural Hair Agenda Series: A Quick Lesson on How Conditioners Work

Conditioners, aid in detangling, fighting frizz, strengthening and preventing damage to your hair by locking in moisture. But exactly how do they work?

Most conditioners fall into the category of surface acting conditioners. They are formulated to work on the outer layer or cuticle of the hair strand. Deep conditioners - the ones where you are instructed to keep on from 15 to 20 mins with a plastic cap and/or heat - contain ingredients that are humectants (moisture retainers).

Deep conditioners penetrate the inner core, the cortex, of your hair supplying moisture and protein. They also contain hydrating ingredients such as aloe, wheat germ and olive oil. These conditioners, are called pack conditioners, and are heavy and creamy in consistency.

 
Leave-in conditioners do not penetrate the hair strand, but are formulated to quickly coat the hair and protect it until the next washing. They are lightweight, and will contain lighter conditioning agents, which add little weight to the hair. 

Each hair strand has three layers and the cuticle is the outer layer which protects them. The cuticle consists of scales that cover the hair strand. Everyday styling, combing/brushing, washing, and the strands simply rubbing against each other causes friction and raises the scales on the hair strand. Conditioners work by coating the hair strand, making the scales close against the strand smoother.

When the scales on the hair strand become severely damaged via harsh chemicals, bleach, sun, etc. the hair strand is weakened, begins to break down and layer by layer the cuticle begins to disappear exposing the cortex layer which it once protected. Once the cortex is exposed, split ends appear and the hair eventually breaks.

Again, conditioning your hair is a way to keep the scales on the hair strand smooth and therefore protecting the cuticle. Also after conditioning, when the hair dries, it is coated with a thin film,  and prevents static electricity from building up and 'frizzing' the hair. Our hair carries negative electrical charges, ingredients in conditioners carry positive electrical charges. The negative charges attract to the positive charges, which cancel each other out and therefore reduces static electricity, again eliminating frizz.

The thin film left behind by ingredients found in conditioners like panthenol, amino acids and Vitamin B5 also help raised cuticle scales on each hair strand to lie flat, which enhances hair color creating luster and shine. Flat cuticles also make the hair strands smoother and detangling much easier.
 
Conditioner Info:
h2g - http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A851627
About.com - http://beauty.about.com/library/bltips531.htm
Pioneer Thinking - http://www.pioneerthinking.com/beauty/hair/conditioner/
Motown Girl - http://motowngirl.com/index.php/deep-conditioning-tips.html

Stay tuned for more articles from the Natural Hair Agenda Series.

Guest Blogger Laquita Thomas-Banks is one of the Natural Hair communities most noted writers. Her credits include writing for Clutch magazine and its sister site Coco and Cream, the Examiner.com as the DC Natural Hair Examiner. She also writes natural hair articles for Pumpsicle, AfroGlitz, Living No Lye, Sanata International print magazine, and a guest blogger on Kinnks. She was also featured during BOND Inc’s Spotlight.

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Natural & All Feature: Shana

Hello my name is Shana and I am in love with my natural hair!

My natural hair journey began a little something like this….

In February, about 8 months after first cutting my hair, I got frustrated with trying to maintain a perm as it grew out and decided to just cut the perm out and start fresh short with natural hair. About 6 months after that cut, I decided to start fresh and cut all my hair off again. I did an awful job and had a few patches so I had to go to the barber shop and told the barber to give me a fade.

I decided to go natural because I was tired of my hair.  I had long hair before getting it cut initially and although many believed I wasn’t, I was a perm head. My hair was getting dry and brittle from a lot of coloring, perming and cutting. I never seemed to be satisfied with how my hair looked, long or not. I had been researching going natural for months before cutting my hair but I was not sure if it was something I really wanted to do. I was scared of the stigma that may come with being natural and feeling unattractive. When I first cut the perm out, I received a lot of smart comments because I would pluck it out like an afro. People would walk pass me and put their fist up, LOL. When I cut it the second time, people really were surprised.

                                          

My friends and family were shocked but supportive of my decision to go natural and as a result I felt even more comfortable with myself and my decision. I think overall, they just want me to have my long hair again LOL.

The goal for my hair is just to continue to grow it out. I miss my long hair but I just do not miss having perms. Since going natural, I have learned that I have a pretty nice grain of hair. My hair gets real curly when I wet it and I never realized I had curly hair. The one thing I do not like is that my hair gets frizzy! I have found some good products that help me maintain that and basically on rainy days I just do not try. Even with that, to me, my natural curls are golden.

If I were stranded on an island the products I just couldn’t live without are coconut oil and Cantu Leave- in Conditioner because they make my hair soft and my natural pretty curls can form.

Throughout this journey I’ve learned confidence is important.  I have learned since being natural that natural is for everyone but not everyone is meant to be natural. You have to have patience and a real desire to want to learn about your hair. It does not make you any more or any less of a person. Just do you!

Natural and All Feature: Angela

Hello my name is Angela

My natural hair journey began a little something like this…

It was my last semester in college and I was going to Paris, France to study fashion abroad for a couple of months.  My intentions were to stay in Paris indefinitely and I had no idea what kinds of products were available to black “relaxed” hair.  So, I decided to cut off ALL of my hair (a decision that was made in 2 seconds) and go natural.  I felt so free and at that moment, I was not defined or restricted by my hair.

I decided to go natural because I was scared to go to Paris with relaxed hair.  All I could think about was not being able to buy my Pink Oil Moisturizing Lotion.  The funny thing was that once I arrived in Paris, all of my products were available and cheaper!

My friends and family were very shocked but not surprised of my decision to go natural and as a result and after many years of me being natural…both of my sisters are natural too. 

The goal for my hair is just to let it be.  For a long time, I was uncomfortable with my decision to go natural.  It was in the late 1990’s and a lot of my friends were not embracing the natural look.  Being in my 20’s, I wanted to “fit” in with my peers but at the same time…I just loved the freedom my hair gave me so I stuck with it.

If I were stranded on an island the products I just couldn’t live without is my cheap Suave conditioner for my co-washing. Its a must. Suave just came out with an almond and Shea butter one and I just love it. That alone gives my hair moisture and makes it manageable. Also, I would need my leave-in conditioner.  Right now, I am using Cantu.  I decided to give it a try…I discovered it at Target for $4.99 and I couldn’t pass it up.  I co-wash my hair everyday and I do my daily ritual of detangling in the shower.  I have my whole routine down now to 10mins!

Throughout this journey I’ve learned that your exteriors do not define you…it’s what lies at your core.  All those years of feeling insecure/embarrassed about my short “nappy” hair taught me that lesson.  Once I realized that I controlled my own destiny and was responsible for my life, my hair was just another accessory.  I have learned to nurture and love Francine “my fro” with all of my being and she just keeps giving me the love back.  Now I would not trade her for anything.  Sometimes I do press and I have done a full weave once but I always come back to Francine, she keeps it real!

Follow TheMuslin.com a blog that features Angela's personal fashion journey of being a retail girl by day and a fashion designer by night.

If you would like to be the next Natural and All feature or post any of your health, beauty or fashion information on our Natural & All page please send your inquiries to iambondinc@gmail.com.